It's been about six weeks month since I
got here and it took about a couple of weeks to get used to the job (remember,
this is the first full-time job I've held in ten years). While it's taken some time to gather my
thoughts together for this letter, it's also taken some time for me to get used
to working with Wordstar and for an IBM-compatible to get installed at the
house.
I'm living the somewhat schizophrenic
existence of the expatriate who lives and works in an English-speaking
environment with only the non-English-speaking lower-level employees and
household help reminding him that he is in a foreign country.
I haven't learned a single word of
Cantonese (not even bad words, believe it or not) but have managed to get by in
one of three ways: (a) asking bilingual
to translate, (b) using sign language, or (c) grinning and bearing it, e.g.,
letting the bus go clear to the end of the line instead of telling the driver
to stop three blocks before.
This doesn't mean that I'm just a little
better than a deaf-mute. There are a few
places where you can speak English, e.g., McDonald's and as long as you carry a
map along, you can get by, provided you're willing to get lost a few times
(when that happens, I take a cab and show the cabdriver where on the map I want
to go).
Part of the problem is that the roads aren't
laid out in a grid pattern and this makes it quite difficult for a person whose
sense of direction is as lousy as mine.
But I've seen much of the place--because
my co-workers do drive around a lot and I often go along, if only for the
ride. I haven't done everything that tourists
generally do (I have not, for instance, taken the tram up to Victoria Peak,
gone boating in the Aberdeen area, or caroused in Wanchai). But I've taken the ferry across the channel
(and gone through the tunnel linking
The problem is that by and large, I've
been seeing the
I live and work in Kwun Tong, a district
in
I live in a three-story house that was
originally designed to contain six apartments.
We have over 1,000 square feet of floor space per floor (there are five
of us who live here) and if this amount of living space seems generous by Manila
standards, it is scandalously luxurious by the standards of Hong Kong where
public housing (government high-rise apartments) generally allocates around 300
square feet per family of five adult members (two children are considered
equivalent to one adult).
The house is about five minutes' drive
from the office (about 30 minutes' walk).
While I've walked to office, I've never walked home because the homeward
trek would be all uphill. We figure that
the house is more than 500 feet above sea level.
From our yard, we can look to the right
and get an unobstructed view of Hong Kong island across Victoria channel; if we
look straight ahead, we see a couple of hills; if we look to the left, we see
Junk Bay and more to the left and farther in the distance, Clear Water
Bay. The view is unobstructed beause we
are up on a hill. Our nearest neighbor
also has a three-story house but the level of our first floor is even higher
than his roof.
The view is somewhat better from my room
(which is on the third floor) or from our flat tiled roof which we could very
easily convert into a roof garden. Having
a washer and dryer means that we don't have to use the roof as a place to hang
out our laundry.
My room is pretty large, over 300 square
feet, is fully air-conditioned, and has got wall-to-wall carpeting. I don't have to do any cleaning; I don't even
have to make my bed because a maid does these things (although most of the time,
the bed doesn't get made till past lunchtime).
And though the maid will wash our clothes if we tell her to, each of us
washes his own clothes (I suspect that we trust ourselves with the washing
machine more than we trust her). But she
presses our clothes . . . or at least, the clothes we want her to press.
In short, it's pretty much like hotel
living.
I haven't had too much difficulty moving
to a daytime schedule. I generally am up
before 7 and am in the office between 8:30 and 9. All this means is that I no longer can stay
up till 3 or 4 in the morning. I
generally am in bed by midnight.
And, of course, my eating habits have
had to change. My breakfasts aren't the
hearty 10 a.m. meals that enabled me to last till as late as 7 or 8 p.m. with
nothing in between. Breakfasts now are
"dry" breakfasts -- granola bars, sometimes with crackers and toast
or cold cuts and crackers . . . but lunch and dinner are relatively heavy (or
about as heavy as a three- to four-dish Chinese meal can be).
How good are these Chinese meals? Well, better than the kind of stuff I used to
get at places like Aberdeen Court or China Pearl and about as good as what I
would get at Marco Polo. The fish dishes
are pretty good since the fish is always fresh, thanks to the custom of buying
fish that are still alive and swimming.
My handling of chopsticks is no better
than it used to be -- certainly not expert-class -- but I get by.
We have two part-time Chinese cooks --
one cooks lunch, the other dinner. So
far, there's nothing that has been served that I didn't like, but if this happened,
I wouldn't be bothered at all. We have a
rather liberal policy on groceries . . . basically, we can buy what we want and
charge it to the house. I must have
bought something like two dozen huge chocolate bars over the past month . . .
but it seems I'm not the only one who eats them!
The cooks are off on Sunday and so, it's
only one day a week that we have to fend for ourselves. Either one of the other people in the house
cooks (certainly not I) or we go out.
When we don't go out, I generally wash the dishes -- about the only
chore I do around this house.
Under these conditions, I will never
learn to cook. The most I've ever done
is fry an egg or cook some noodles (you know, the kind which merely requires
you to add boiling water).
The office is located in the Kwun Tong
Pastoral Center. I have only a very
vague idea about what other activities go on in that building. I know there must be classes of various kinds
going on because I see a number of teenagers in school uniforms playing on the
basketball courts (and they don't always play basketball; more often than not,
they play half-court soccer) and I am told that there are evening
adult-education classes too. And the
building is used as a meeting place by various groups . . . including some
Filipina housemaids (I was introduced to the Filipino nun and priest who meet
with this group regularly).
Traditional journalists will probably
gasp at the idea that an agency that sends out a weekly package of news stories
and publishes a weekly eight-page newsmagazine has only one typewriter which
hardly ever gets used. We have nine
IBM-compatible microcomputers all hooked up to each other, with four printers
(two daisy-wheel, two dot-matrix) and four hard-disks. So far, it is only Manila that we can hook up
to directly. Direct hook-ups with other
parts of Asia will depend, I expect, on the amount of stories we get from these
places and the quality of staff members we would have there.
Each story gets edited at least three
times and each editor can call any story into his machine.
The stories, as you might expect, can be
rather atrocious. Think of the kind of
English written by Indonesians and Thais and you can imagine the kind of stories
we get. Worse, since very many of our
correspondents are not professional journalists, the stories we get often lack
important details.
Many stories that we receive are not
objective. Some of our correspondents
seem to feel that their job is to glorify certain members of the church
hierarchy. And we have correspondents
who are themselves involved as actors in the events they are reporting, e.g., a
Thai bishop who supervises the Church effort to help the Indo-Chinese refugees
in Thailand. We can't expect such people
to be truly objective, can we?
Of course, there are places where
writing the truth is dangerous (or at least, is seen to be dangerous). In places like Korea, a foreign missionary certainly
feels a little more secure than a Korean newsman when he writes about the
anti-government riots going on over there.
And in Indonesia, where the Church receives government subsidies, many
churchmen do not like to speak out against government abuses. If I don't sound particularly excited
about the job, that's because much of what I'm doing is stuff I could have done
about five years after I finished college.
What I look forward to is helping to set up a better system of doing things
so we can do the things we're doing in about half the time it takes us now.
And yet, strangely enough, the visitors
who have come to the house represent a much wider spectrum of people than I
have expected, e.g., the United States consul-general, an Australian
assemblyman, the son of former Korean Prime Minister John Chang, a Thai
professor of philosophy, Swiss representatives of a philanthropic organization,
and an Austrian high school teacher of history and geography.
As you might expect, there's a wide
range of opinions (and misinformation) represented . . . the old China-watcher
who has never been back in China since 1949 and looks at today's China as a
simple extrapolation from 1949 . . . the Indian archbishop, just back from
Beijing, extremely optimistic about the Chinese government's desire for peace .
. . the matron from the American Midwest who sincerely asks about the extent to
which the Maryknoll Order has been infiltrated by the communists . . . the
70-year-old British civil servant who never raises his voice but conveys
emotions ranging from malicious glee to high indignation simply by the
inflection of his voice . . . the Indonesian who has spent the last 20 years in
China who looks at a pizza pie and pontificates that it is Danish pastry.
Still, I like the people at the
office. And while the pay in money terms
is not particularly great, a major fraction of it pure profit. I get free room and board and about the only
things I have had to spend for is cigarettes, plus occasional bus and taxi
fares. Maybe I'll be spending a little
more once I start making the rounds of the bookstores (I've done that only
once--more to buy maps than books).
I haven't looked up some of the people
whom I know are here, partly because I still haven't quite learned to get
around the place and I'm sure that many of these people have gotten sick and
tired of having old friends drop in on them, broadly hinting that they play
tourist guide. No, I'll look these
people up when I can tell them that I've seen most of the tourist spots. Better yet, I probably will invite them up to
the house.